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	<title>Comments on: EAS Valve Block Rebuild Guide</title>
	<atom:link href="http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://paulp38a.com</link>
	<description>Trials and Trails with Range Rovers</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 07 May 2012 12:48:54 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Peter Roscoe</title>
		<link>http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/comment-page-1/#comment-974</link>
		<dc:creator>Peter Roscoe</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Apr 2012 07:36:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://paulp38a.com/?page_id=21#comment-974</guid>
		<description>Wonderful - I&#039;ll be printing this one out!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Wonderful &#8211; I&#8217;ll be printing this one out!</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Update to EAS Valve Block O-rings renewal guide</title>
		<link>http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/comment-page-1/#comment-969</link>
		<dc:creator>Update to EAS Valve Block O-rings renewal guide</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Apr 2012 16:19:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://paulp38a.com/?page_id=21#comment-969</guid>
		<description>[...] is locked, I&#039;ll post it here...  I&#039;ve just done an update to the EAS Valve Block Renew guide at http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/ to include a new diagram showing the connections between the EAS Driver and solenoid covers... [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] is locked, I&#039;ll post it here&#8230;  I&#039;ve just done an update to the EAS Valve Block Renew guide at <a href="http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/" rel="nofollow">http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/</a> to include a new diagram showing the connections between the EAS Driver and solenoid covers&#8230; [...]</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: PaulP38A</title>
		<link>http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/comment-page-1/#comment-968</link>
		<dc:creator>PaulP38A</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Apr 2012 11:20:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://paulp38a.com/?page_id=21#comment-968</guid>
		<description>Hi George, good luck with orings from the hardware. Might work as an emergency thing, but I would still recommend getting a full oring repair kit. If you don&#039;t already have one, get an EAS Unlock Cable too.

If you put the covers back on the wrong solenoids, no big deal. Just operate them manually and you will soon know which is which, and then move them to the correct spot. Use the diagram at the top of this page as a reference for which solenoid operates which corner.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi George, good luck with orings from the hardware. Might work as an emergency thing, but I would still recommend getting a full oring repair kit. If you don&#8217;t already have one, get an EAS Unlock Cable too.</p>
<p>If you put the covers back on the wrong solenoids, no big deal. Just operate them manually and you will soon know which is which, and then move them to the correct spot. Use the diagram at the top of this page as a reference for which solenoid operates which corner.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: George</title>
		<link>http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/comment-page-1/#comment-967</link>
		<dc:creator>George</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Apr 2012 23:03:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://paulp38a.com/?page_id=21#comment-967</guid>
		<description>Hi Paul, Thanks for brilliant explanation, I got two questions:
1. If i don&#039;t have &quot;o&quot; ring kit can same size &quot;o&quot; ring from hardware store do the job? ( I stuck in Trinidad and fastest I can get the kit from USA is 7/10 days :()
2. if I forgot to mark the covers, is there any way I can find out which one goes were?
many thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Paul, Thanks for brilliant explanation, I got two questions:<br />
1. If i don&#8217;t have &#8220;o&#8221; ring kit can same size &#8220;o&#8221; ring from hardware store do the job? ( I stuck in Trinidad and fastest I can get the kit from USA is 7/10 days <img src='http://paulp38a.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif' alt=':(' class='wp-smiley' /> )<br />
2. if I forgot to mark the covers, is there any way I can find out which one goes were?<br />
many thanks</p>
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		<title>By: Valve block/Compressor refurbished - Scotty comes through... again!</title>
		<link>http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/comment-page-1/#comment-958</link>
		<dc:creator>Valve block/Compressor refurbished - Scotty comes through... again!</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Mar 2012 16:44:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://paulp38a.com/?page_id=21#comment-958</guid>
		<description>[...] rebuild kit for my EAS. He sent them very quickly and I was able to rebuild my EAS valve block ( http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/ ) and my compressor before my trip to Death Valley next week. It took about 4 hours total for the [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] rebuild kit for my EAS. He sent them very quickly and I was able to rebuild my EAS valve block ( <a href="http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/" rel="nofollow">http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/</a> ) and my compressor before my trip to Death Valley next week. It took about 4 hours total for the [...]</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: ken anderson</title>
		<link>http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/comment-page-1/#comment-954</link>
		<dc:creator>ken anderson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Mar 2012 04:39:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://paulp38a.com/?page_id=21#comment-954</guid>
		<description>Paul- thanks to your great diagrams etc after being horrififed for a quote for rebuilding the EAS on my P38 my son and I tackled the job with a succesful outcome. We used silicon grease as used for swimming poorl and divig gear o-rings. Found it handy to remove the ECU to help remove the air-lines. We purchased clay bead dessicant from Wholesale Group International for the air dryer -they have offices worldwide. Suggest you remove US company **** ****** from you websites as we sent them $50 for dessicant and a comressor recon kit with not a word from them since we paid. 
Overall very glad we did the EAS. Its running great and cost peanuts .</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Paul- thanks to your great diagrams etc after being horrififed for a quote for rebuilding the EAS on my P38 my son and I tackled the job with a succesful outcome. We used silicon grease as used for swimming poorl and divig gear o-rings. Found it handy to remove the ECU to help remove the air-lines. We purchased clay bead dessicant from Wholesale Group International for the air dryer -they have offices worldwide. Suggest you remove US company **** ****** from you websites as we sent them $50 for dessicant and a comressor recon kit with not a word from them since we paid.<br />
Overall very glad we did the EAS. Its running great and cost peanuts .</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: PaulP38A</title>
		<link>http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/comment-page-1/#comment-932</link>
		<dc:creator>PaulP38A</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 26 Feb 2012 14:32:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://paulp38a.com/?page_id=21#comment-932</guid>
		<description>Hi Mike
I would be checking if you can manually operate the solenoids using a diagnostics tool like the EAS Unlock Suite, FaultMate MSV-2 or Nanocom before writing-off the EAS Driver Unit. Sticky solenoid valves might be a mechanical problem rather than a driver fault.
Unfortunately I do not know how to bypass the EAS Driver unit. Perhaps the good folks at http://aulro.com or http://rangerovers.net can offer more suggestions.
Best wishes, Paul.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Mike<br />
I would be checking if you can manually operate the solenoids using a diagnostics tool like the EAS Unlock Suite, FaultMate MSV-2 or Nanocom before writing-off the EAS Driver Unit. Sticky solenoid valves might be a mechanical problem rather than a driver fault.<br />
Unfortunately I do not know how to bypass the EAS Driver unit. Perhaps the good folks at <a href="http://aulro.com" rel="nofollow">http://aulro.com</a> or <a href="http://rangerovers.net" rel="nofollow">http://rangerovers.net</a> can offer more suggestions.<br />
Best wishes, Paul.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Mike Pieete</title>
		<link>http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/comment-page-1/#comment-931</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike Pieete</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 25 Feb 2012 18:48:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://paulp38a.com/?page_id=21#comment-931</guid>
		<description>Hi Paul,

tx for the extensive explanation, very helpful. One question though: do you know a way to bypass the valve block driver?

It seems mine is shortcutted, inlet and right side valves won&#039;t work through the driver.

Happy to hear and tx!

Mike</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Paul,</p>
<p>tx for the extensive explanation, very helpful. One question though: do you know a way to bypass the valve block driver?</p>
<p>It seems mine is shortcutted, inlet and right side valves won&#8217;t work through the driver.</p>
<p>Happy to hear and tx!</p>
<p>Mike</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Phil Alexander</title>
		<link>http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/comment-page-1/#comment-692</link>
		<dc:creator>Phil Alexander</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Nov 2011 22:48:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://paulp38a.com/?page_id=21#comment-692</guid>
		<description>Many Thanks Paul !! Job done now all working correctly  so old pressure switch definitely faulty.
Really appreciate your help will be putting Hard Range stubby coolers to good use .
Cheers Phil.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Many Thanks Paul !! Job done now all working correctly  so old pressure switch definitely faulty.<br />
Really appreciate your help will be putting Hard Range stubby coolers to good use .<br />
Cheers Phil.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: PaulP38A</title>
		<link>http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/comment-page-1/#comment-689</link>
		<dc:creator>PaulP38A</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Nov 2011 11:32:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://paulp38a.com/?page_id=21#comment-689</guid>
		<description>Hi Phil, I find that a small nail or jewellers screwdriver pushed down beside the old push-in terminals to flatten the locking lug does the trick. Then use a small flat-head screwdriver on the underside of the socket to push the old terminal out. Insert the new terminals noting which way the locking lug goes to ensure it does not slide back out. I do not believe the pressure switch wires go in any particular order, or I have just been lucky on the few I have changed.
Cheers, Paul.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Phil, I find that a small nail or jewellers screwdriver pushed down beside the old push-in terminals to flatten the locking lug does the trick. Then use a small flat-head screwdriver on the underside of the socket to push the old terminal out. Insert the new terminals noting which way the locking lug goes to ensure it does not slide back out. I do not believe the pressure switch wires go in any particular order, or I have just been lucky on the few I have changed.<br />
Cheers, Paul.</p>
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